Built privately in 1816, now in the Santa Fe Archdiocese and on the National Register of Historic Places, the “Santuario de Nuestro Señor de Esquipulas”, or Santuario de Chimayo for short, greets nearly 300,000 people who make pilgrimages to this remote New Mexico adobe church during Holy Week. We have visited on a few less-crowded occasions, most recently on this splendidly warm autumn day, when a huge cottonwood behind the sanctuary formed a blazing gold-orange backdrop.